AN EYE FOR FASHION A MIND FOR BUSINESS

There are numerous emerging designers taking Dublin by storm with their fabulous designs and innovative techniques. They tell Niamh MacSweeney why they are determined to etch out successful design careers and develop thriving businesses

FOR AN AUSPICIOUS OCCASION

Aoife O’Leary is a shinning example of a designer who carved a successful career in fashion, but not before learning her trade working extensively for more than ten years with renowned designers such as John Rocha, Antonia Campbell-Hughes, Kathy de Stafford and Carol Smith Millinery. Having worked for a period in retail she moved onto the boutique ‘Ceylon in the City’ in Dublin. There she designed the boutique’s in-house collection but it was her role as assistant buyer working with agents and wholesalers in London and Paris that she gained a more rounded view of the industry.

“Three and a half years ago I set up my own design company, operating out of a city centre studio. Contacts from my time spent in the retailing side of the business have served me well and many loyal customers have followed me and continue to order from my collections today,” O’Leary says.

CLASSICAL STYLE

According to O’Leary knowing your customer is crucial, “I know what women love and hate about their bodies and always keep this in mind when designing. I don’t base my collection on trends too much as I like my pieces to be more classic and thus last longer in a customer’s wardrobe. I let each piece evolve as it is being made and won’t finalise a design until it has been tried on.”

CHALLENGES FACING DESIGNERS

She realises that any problems experienced in the initial start-up years were to be expected.  “Any problems incurred have helped me to get to where I am now.  Experience is the best way to learn and I know what to look out for in the future and it has made me much more wary,” she says.

EXTENDING THE COLLECTION

CRAFTING VANILLA GEMS

A truly creative soul and avid traveller, Jennifer Kinnear started making jewellery when she took a trip to Mexico and California in 2001

After arriving back in Ireland in 2002, self taught for the most part, Kinnear studied silver smithing in NCAD, while setting up her first label ‘Vanilla’, which was an instant hit with the likes of Kilkenny Design, Waterford Crystal and Avoca. The natural progression after ‘Vanilla’ was to open ‘JK Retail Studio’ in Temple Bar, in 2004, and to introduce two new labels; Kink Bijoux and Jenny Wren, which appeal to different clients. At ‘JK’ she works in situ, designing custom made pieces for the client who likes to be involved in the design process to make a ‘one of a kind’ piece. She has a gold collection which is exclusive to ‘JK’ and has recently branched out into designing diamonds. She prides herself on quality and craftsmanship and likes to specialise in unusual shapes and combinations of coloured stones.

TRAVEL INSPIRATION

The process undertaken by Kinnear to produce one of her intricate designs can vary depending on the detail of the piece and the material she is working with. “If it’s a silver or gold piece with beading, I usually sketch it, then transfer the details of the drawing to tracing paper, mark the silver or gold and pierce and saw the silver out. If it’s to be cast by the casting company I’ll make it the master copy, putting a sprue on the design for where the silver is poured. Then it comes back from the casting company to be cleaned up, finished and polished. Usually these silver or gold pieces or components are added to a beaded necklace or used on their own,” she explains.

A SHREWD BUSINESS SENSE

Although Kinnnear is striving forward in jewellery design she admits there are numerous challenges, most noticeably in regard to finances and also the day-to-day running of the business. “It’s extremely difficult to be recognised in the design or jewellery business, competition is fierce as everyone likes the idea of being a designer. But often creative people do not have the business acumen to survive this cut throat industry. Starting out was tough, tenacity and hard work are the only things that will get you through,” Kinnear reveals. She availed of the Dublin City Enterprise Board mentoring scheme and Enterprise Ireland funded a research and development grant which allowed her to go to China and source cheaper raw materials.

A PRECIOUS JEWEL CARVES OUT A SUCCESSFUL JEWELLERY COMPANY

Young jeweller, Yvonne Ryan is the designer behind Eve-Ella, a brand that specialises in contemporary yet classical style

Eve-Ella Jewellery was set up in late 2005 and is registered with the Crafts Council of Ireland. Previously she trained with Alan Ardiff, one of Ireland’s leading Irish Jewellery designers before venturing out to set up her own brand. Her collection comprises of high quality materials of gold, silver, precious and semi-precious gemstones which enhance each finished design. Each design starts off as an idea which has been inspired by her surroundings whether it be architecture, nature, fairy tales or solid forms and is developed into a workable design on paper before the silver piece is constructed through various silver/goldsmith techniques she has acquired through her work experience over the last few years.

CASHFLOW IS KING

Juggling the finances of any business can be difficult especially in the start-up years but this is even more so in the design industry. “The design business in Ireland is very challenging for small businesses starting out. One of the main issues you are faced with is the initial financial outlay involved in the set-up. The set-up of a business can be quite costly at the beginning as all the bills come together whereas sales income is dispersed throughout the year or following years,” Ryan reveals. She attributes Dublin City Enterprise Board’s employment grant as being a significant benefit and crucial to the success of her business so far. “It enabled me to invest in the machinery I needed to fulfil the orders necessary to grow the business and make it sustainable over the coming years.”

PERFECT PARTNERS

Kate and Ava began designing and manufacturing their label in early 2005 and initially sold it in Cow's Lane Market. This gave them an opportunity to meet customers and to gauge market demand for their product. Following its success, they decided to formalise their partnership and to further develop a more substantial collection to be marketed to premium outlets.

PROS AND CONS

According to the partners, setting up a business in Ireland has its benefits and its drawbacks. “There are no longer any manufacturers in Ireland so getting samples and small runs of production made can be difficult. The cost of getting these done abroad cuts into profit margins and most of the industry trade shows are in Paris and London which also pushes up costs,” they explain.

On the plus side they realise that because Ireland is so small it makes it easier to get their brand known. “The DCEB have been an excellent support to us and have provided courses on the legalities of starting a business, mentoring and financial planning.”

FUTURE ENDEAVORS

"Kate and Ava" will be launched on the European market place in January 2008 by attending trade shows in Paris and London. “We will continue to produce bigger collections each season to increase our customer base and gain more stockists in Ireland. In October we will begin selling our collection in the US.”

LUXURIOUS TAILORING

Born in New York, and raised in Dublin, Jennifer Rothwell graduated from NCAD and in 1995 moved to New York, where she acquired extensive fashion experience. With more than twelve years design and production experience, she has been director of design for many high profile NY companies.

EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE

She later went on to work and gain further fashion experience with Katayone Adeli, Calvin Klein, Language and Yigal Azrouel. Rothwell has gained a renowned reputation in the New York fashion industry over the years, so much so that other high profile companies like Rogan NYC have all tried to recruit her.

SURVIVING THE CHALLENGE

Like many in the industry Rothwell agrees it can be difficult to be self-employed in the fashion industry in Ireland. “In Ireland there is no manufacturing fashion industry as such. But there’s great support from Dublin City Enterprise Board and there is great grant aid available in the form of feasibility, website and export grants. I availed of all the above and they have been greatly beneficial to my business development and growth,” she says.

So what are the plans for the future for this determined designer and how will she progress her business? “Export is the next step and it is essential for the growth of my business,” Rothwell concludes.

Published in the September 2007 Issue of Irish Entrepreneur